Day 7: Sunday, July 8, 2012
Still in Macusfuckingspana.
But the car was finished today, so booyah. We headed out to Palenque around two or so and it
started raining pretty darn hard, so we were able to enjoy the ruinas without
too many people/distractions. They are
pretty freaking awesome. After taking in
all that Palenque’s ruins had to offer (at least, until it closed), we headed
to a tiny cascada super nearby, then checked in to a hostel (Hostal Elementos
Naturales) very nearby (in the park)—it featured cabanas and was pretty cool,
though internetless. Abraham and I set
out to find some brews, but the nearest neighbors didn’t have alchy for sale or
were culieros. After a little while we
headed to some restaurant owned by an Italian-Mexican and dined—I had a calzone
that was quite good. While there we
caught a pretty sweet fire dancing show and then kicked it with Mono Blanco for
a ratito. Wink face.
Day 8: Monday, July 9, 2012
Woke up late due to the standard heat and humidity of the
rain forest jungle. Set out and had an
absolutely gorgeous drive to San Cristobal de las Casas, which is an hour away
from the capital of Tuxtla and situated just about in the center of the state
of Chiapas. Also, it’s probably my
favorite place in Mexico. The climate changed
a great deal—we made our way through forests and mountains and finally happened
upon this delightful little colonial mountain village which featured a far more
deciduous feel and look. The city is
very “cool” and a little “artsy” and many Euro travelers seem to like it, but
that couldn’t hinder my liking it as well.
There are like four plazitas, with one being especially pretty. I think “quaint” is a great adjective for the
city. The streets are pretty, there are
also quite a few foreigners living there, and thus offering their unique
cultural views, wares, customs, etc. (i.e. foooood). It’s much colder, and there are two hills on
either side of the centro that each feature a church, so climbing them is super
cool. We arrived at night, did some
scoping, and found that there were tonssssss of hostels and hotels on the way
cheap. Pretty much 100 pesos is the
standard/max for a hostel, so that’s a bonus.
We finally decided upon a hotel called…Sancris. The staff were super nice and we negotiated
down to 380 pesos (a night) for the four of us if we stayed two nights. It was very, very comfortable and our first
in-room access to internet. Sleep.
Day 9: Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Awoke nice and early in San Cristobal and set out to conquer
the two perched churches and see what I could of the city. Still great.
We cruised the city a bit, found a great place to break fast on one of
the few walking-only streets (the smallest one), which also happed to have a hostel
for 70 pesos a night! I peeped it and it
seems sweet, gotta return. We missed out
on Cañon de Sumideros, but went to this very nice national park type place called Rancho Nuevo (that
was clean and reminiscent of the positive aspects of the States) to see some grutas
and ride some horses around the park.
Tranquilo, chido. Returned to the
city, rocked the two churches (again—for me), copped some poz (pronounced
posh), which is the local alcohol of the area.
Stuff is stiff as nailz. Easy to
get faded off like 10 pesos of the stuff.
Day 10: Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Again awoke early in San Cristobal, took a walk, returned,
and readied to leave. We set out for
Comitán, and made our way through and to El Chiflon cascadas. This place was cool: nice and tranquilo at
the bottom, but as you keep walking the water gets rougher, nearing the fairly
huge waterfalls at the end. We made it
all the way to the top, and after about five minutes it of course started
pouring. Like, Pouringggg. So we scurried down the rain-slicked mud and
amazingly managed not to fall, then prepped to leave. On the road back to Comitán proper, we
encountered a delicious sunset and stopped for a bit. We landed in Comitán centro fairly late (like
9), but the zocalo was very pretty.
Joana had a friend who’s dad lived there, so we arranged to stay at his
place, met up with him, and went to his house. His name is Mario and he knows a buttload
about the state, especially the areas around Comitán, so he gave us his
recommendations and we adjusted.
Day 11: Thursday, July 12, 2012
Woke up at Mario’s and readied for his scheduled day. First up, Tenam Puente, which was a Mayan
ruin site that seemed quite new and was almost totally empty (of people). It was cheap and pretty cool. We then went to our second ruin site of the
day, Chinkultik, which was freer, larger, featured awesome vistas (of quite a
few lakes), and all-in-all: cooler.
Also, we allowed some dude named Daniel Hernandez to be our guide. Who knows whether or not he was telling the
truth, but he was nice. So, Chinkultik
is very cool, I definitely recommend it.
Daniel says the site is only about eight years old, and it also featured
a cenote (in which people cannot swim, unfortunately). There’s also a lake super nearby where you
can paddleboat, or even stay, I think.
Mario had also told us about Lagos de Montebello and Los Nubes, so we
talked to Daniel about these and he said he’d take us to Los Lagos afterward,
so we took him up on the offer. And when
I say “he’d take us” I mean “we’d take him.”
Anyway, we went to Lagos de Montebello, paid more to enter than we were
told and more than the armband read, and were then mortified and enraged to learn
that each individual lago charges another like 20 pesos per person! Well, there are like 59 lagos, and it turns
out a few don’t feature rogue casetas, so Daniel took us to a couple and we
tried to enjoy, though were a bit pissed about the high tariffs and additional
costs to visit the super cool lagos.
Anyway, we were mostly disfrutando when Joana se calló (though we didn’t
know immediately). She fell on her super
awesome camera and it was deemed dead—also, her ribs were deemed probably
fractured. Muy malo. We left, dropped Daniel off, made our way
back to Comitán, found a medical consult for Joana, bought her some drugs, ate,
and returned to Mario’s. I did some
work, but Mario was in a social mood and talked to Abraham and I till like
three, four in the mornin’.
Day 12: Friday, July 13, 2012
Woke up at Mario’s at 7, ready to rumble! …The rest of the group awoke at like 10/11
though. Joana’s shoulder/ribs were
definitely effed up, but she wanted to push forth to Frontera Corozal, which
borders Guatemala and is very close to the supposedly magnificent ruins of
Yaxchilan. Yet another gorgeous Chiapas
drive, though this time getting warmer instead of colder as we made our way south. Arrived in Frontera Corozal and saw signs for
some “Jaguar” place that seemed pretty cool, so we went there and asked about
prices—they had cabanas for something we weren’t willing to pay and camping for
50 pesos a head. We decided that was a
tad caro for camping, plus both Joana and Abril were in pain, so that idea
quickly died. We went back toward a sign
we had seen for a posada se llamó Liz Beth.
We negotiated the price down to…I dunno, like 75 pesos a head or
something, and made use of the like 30 cable channels! However, it was a queen and a single bed plus
a hammock and a floor. I made full use
of the floor and watched Batman: The Dark Knight until I fell asleep in the wee
hours, then woke up a bit later and moved to the bed for a short while.
Day 13: Saturday, July 14, 2012
I moved back to the floor and then woke up around 7 and
cruised the pueblito. There was another
place very similar to the Jaguar place, and they let me use their internet, so
that was cool. Went down to the docks to
ask about lancha rides to Yaxchilan, then back to the room. We slowly but surely made our way back to the
shore and hopped a ride up to Yaxchilan—45 minutes there, two hours to enjoy,
and 50 minutes back. Well, the boat ride
was great and Yaxchilan was greater.
Super cool, super green, super lush.
I think my favorite aspect is that it features three levels. You start outside the ruins and enter via a
very dark tunnel, so that’s cool. You’re
then in…I don’t remember, the great plaza or something. It’s cool, but from there you head up a
mountain and shorlty reach the Grand Acropolis, though structures 39, 40, and
41 are quite a climb away, trekking up the selva mountainside. It was spectacular. From there you feel as though you have an
awesome view because you are atop a mountain, but in actuality all you see is a
wall of trees. Oh well. Made my way down and took a fork in the road
that took me to the Small Acropolis, which structure-wise was probably my
favorite lugar. And from there down to
the entrance. Our two hours were almost
up, I had broken my watch, and was separated from the rest of the group, so I
ran back to the dock to look for our bro Pedro the lancha driver. Saw neither him nor my party, so I ran back
into the ruins and up some stairs buscando, but still didn’t see anyone, so
back to the entrance to wait. They
showed up and we were just a tad late for the boat ride back—Pedro didn’t seem
to mind. Oh, on the way to Yaxchilan he
pointed out some monkeys, and on the way back to Corozal he pointed out a
crocodile. Then we made a short detour
to Guatemala! We spent a whopping 15
minutes and were tempted to get some lunch (a woman had some delicious looking
fried fish), but they told us the 30 Guatemalan peso fish was 50 Mexican pesos,
so we nixed that, bought a Guatemalan beer, and headed back to the boat, where
Pedro told us the two pesos are basically equal. Mentirosa!
Back to the homeland and we made our way back up to Palenque. Arrived and it was hot as hell and just a bit
lame.
Day 14: Sunday, July 15, 2012
Woke up in Palenque with ganas to leave… We made our way through Campeche, passing a
ton of signage for ruins and the like, and on to Quintana Roo. We stopped at the border of Belize and the
others enjoyed the zona libre while I enjoyed the chicas de Babu Té due to the
fact that I didn’t have my passport. We
then entered Chetumal (the capital), and found a hotel. One of the chicas at Babu told me she’d be at
a club called Rock Shots, so at like 1 a.m. we decided to give it a shot. Turns out the club is actually two things: 1.
Way fancier than we were prepared for (Abraham and Joana weren't allowed to
enter as dressed and I had to roll down my pant cuffs); 2. Pretty freaking
awesome. My chicas, however, were not in
attendance. Well, I didn’t see them in
my two minutes of cruising. So I left,
told the other two it’s cool, they told me to stay and I said I didn’t wanna
rock it solito, so we went back to the hotel.
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